Charles Perroud, Maker's Page

Charles Perroud was a Lyon-based goldsmith and medallist active primarily between the 1940s and 1970s and one of the most distinctive voices in French fine jewellery of the mid-20th century. Working from Lyon, the historical capital of French jewellery production and the centre of the country's religious medal tradition, Perroud combined the rigour of a trained medallist with the commercial sensibility of a jeweller who understood what people wanted to wear and to give.

He is best known today for his zodiac pendant series in the form of circular medals in 18k yellow gold depicting the twelve astrological signs, each with its figural scene, symbol and date range, framed by Perroud's unmistakable geometric border. Produced in at least two formats: a standard size of approximately 20mm and a petite format of 14mm,  these pendants became the quintessential French birth gift of their era in addition to the baptism medals.

Today they are increasingly sought after by collectors of vintage French fine jewellery, prized both for their quality of construction, their lively sculptural depictions and for the warmth of the tradition they represent.

Perroud also worked in religious jewellery as Lyon had dominated French baptism and devotional medal production since the 19th century. Perroud was a natural heir to that tradition with his Virgin Mary baptism medals. Signed with the CP mark on the die face, these show the same precision and warmth as his zodiac work with high relief figural scenes, clean borders in warm 18k yellow gold. These religious pieces are rarer on the market than the zodiac series and increasingly collected by those who know Perroud's work.

Perroud's pieces are identified by the CP maker's mark and the French eagle hallmark guaranteeing 18k gold purity. The CP initials appear both as the maker's mark on the bail and, on many pieces, as the sculptor's signature on the die face itself — a mark of artisanal pride consistent throughout his career.

Finding an authenticated Perroud piece in good condition is increasingly rare. Finding one with its original engraving and provenance intact is rarer still.

Oldities specialises in authenticated vintage French fine jewellery. All Charles Perroud pieces in our collection are verified with eagle hallmark and CP maker's mark. We are building one of the most comprehensive references for Perroud's work available online — if you have a piece you'd like identified or valued, contact us.